Barbarian Days. A Surfing Life (Finnegan William) ; Corsair, 2016
1978 р.
Автор(ы): Finnegan William;
Издатель: Corsair
ISBN: 9781472151414
ID: SKU1999140
Добавлено: 28.01.2024
Сравнить цены
Цена от 1978 р. до 1978 р. в 2 магазинах
Магазин | Цена | Наличие |
---|---|---|
МАЙШОП 5/5 | 1978 р. 3042 р. | |
Яндекс.Маркет 5/5 | 2871 р. | наличие уточняйте 27.05.2024 |
Лабиринт 5/5 | ||
Описание
Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life.
William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa, Peru and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.
Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.
William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa, Peru and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.
Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.
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Яндекс.Маркет
О книге
ISBN | 9781472151414 |
Автор(ы) | Finnegan William |
Издатель | Corsair |
Год издания | 2016 |
Обложка | мягкая обложка |
Кол-во страниц | 500 |
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